A worrying new trend is sweeping social media and beauty retailers: children as young as 8, 9 and 10 are using anti-ageing skincare products designed for adults.

The phenomenon has become so widespread that it now has a name: Cosmeticorexia.

Cosmeticorexia describes an unhealthy obsession with skincare, anti-ageing products and appearance-focused beauty routines in children and teenagers. It is being fuelled by social media trends, influencer culture and the growing popularity of the so-called "Sephora Kids" movement.

Children are now routinely using products containing retinol, exfoliating acids, anti-wrinkle serums and complex multi-step skincare routines long before they have even reached puberty.

The question is: why?

What Is Cosmeticorexia?

Cosmeticorexia is not about teaching children healthy skincare habits.

It's about convincing young people that they have skin problems before they actually do.

Children are being taught that:

• Pores are flaws
• Skin should be "perfect"
• Ageing is something to fear
• More products mean better skin

The result is a generation developing appearance anxiety years before wrinkles, pigmentation or age-related skin changes should even be a consideration.

Why Adult Skincare Is Not Suitable For Children

Many popular anti-ageing products contain ingredients specifically formulated to treat mature skin concerns such as wrinkles, sun damage and loss of collagen.

These include:

• Retinol and retinoids
• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
• Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
• Strong exfoliating acids
• Intensive resurfacing treatments
• Multi-acid facial masks

Healthy children's skin simply does not need these ingredients.

Unlike adult skin, children's skin is thinner, more delicate and more permeable. This means substances can penetrate more easily and are more likely to cause irritation, redness and disruption of the skin barrier. Dermatologists have repeatedly warned that powerful active ingredients can trigger dermatitis, sensitivity and long-term skin barrier damage when used unnecessarily on young skin. (El País)

The Research Is Concerning

A recent study analysing skincare content created by girls aged 7 to 18 on TikTok found that participants used an average of six skincare products in their routines, with some using significantly more. Researchers identified an average of 11 potentially irritating active ingredients across the most-viewed routines, with some routines containing as many as 21 potentially irritating ingredients. (Healthline)

Researchers warned that many of these ingredients increase the risk of irritation and allergic contact dermatitis — a condition that can leave individuals with lifelong sensitivities to common skincare and cleansing products. (Healthline)

Even more concerning, only around one-quarter of the skincare routines studied included sunscreen, arguably the one product that genuinely protects skin health. (Healthline)

The Hidden Exposure To Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals

The concern extends beyond active ingredients.

Many conventional beauty products contain synthetic fragrances, preservatives and plastic-related compounds that may contribute to children's overall exposure to endocrine-disrupting chemicals.

A 2024 study involving more than 600 children found that those using skincare products had higher levels of phthalate and phthalate-replacement metabolites in their urine. Phthalates are chemicals commonly associated with fragrance systems, packaging materials and personal care products and have raised concerns because of their potential effects on hormone systems. (PubMed)

While more research is needed, this study highlights the importance of being mindful about the number and type of cosmetic products children are exposed to.

Italy Takes Action Against Sephora

The issue has become so significant that regulators are beginning to intervene.

In March 2026, Italy's Competition Authority (AGCM) launched investigations into Sephora Italia, Benefit Cosmetics and associated LVMH companies over concerns that adult skincare products were being marketed to children and adolescents. (AGCM)

Regulators expressed concern about:

• The promotion of anti-ageing products to children
• The use of very young influencers
• Marketing practices that may encourage compulsive purchasing
• Insufficient warnings regarding products not tested for use by minors

The authority specifically linked these concerns to the growing phenomenon of cosmeticorexia and warned that frequent use of multiple cosmetic products by minors could be harmful to their health. (AGCM)

This marks one of the first major regulatory responses in Europe to the rise of skincare obsession among children.

The Bigger Problem: The Message

The physical risks matter.

But the psychological impact may be even more damaging.

When children are taught that every pore needs fixing, every blemish needs correcting and every face needs improving, they absorb a dangerous message:

That their value lies in their appearance.

Childhood should be a time for curiosity, confidence, creativity and play — not worrying about wrinkles that do not exist.

The beauty industry has spent decades convincing women they need more products. We should be asking serious questions about whether that same messaging is now being directed at children.

What Do Children Actually Need?

For most children with healthy skin, a skincare routine should be simple:

• A gentle cleanser if needed
• A lightweight fragrance-free moisturiser if needed
• Daily sunscreen

That's it.

Children do not need anti-ageing serums.

They do not need retinol.

They do not need exfoliating acids.

And they certainly do not need 10-step skincare routines.

Let's Normalise Childhood Again

As parents, carers and brands, we have a responsibility to protect children's wellbeing.

The goal should never be perfect skin.

The goal should be raising children who understand that their worth extends far beyond their appearance.

Because confidence, self-esteem, kindness, resilience and joy will always be more important than pore size.

Let's normalise childhood again.

Sources: Italian Competition Authority (AGCM), Reuters, PubMed (PMID: 39230332), and the peer-reviewed study on TikTok skincare routines published in Pediatrics. (AGCM)