Sensitive Skin: 10 Ingredients and Treatments to Avoid

by Claire GrayNov 11, 20260 comments

Why doing less can sometimes be better for your skin

We are constantly being told that better skin comes from doing more. More exfoliation. More active ingredients. More expensive treatments. More steps in our skincare routine.

But what if the answer to healthier skin isn't another product?

For anyone living with sensitive, reactive or inflammation-prone skin, the pursuit of a flawless complexion can become an exhausting cycle of trying new products, experiencing irritation and searching for something else to fix the problem.

And if you have a condition such as psoriasis, eczema or rosacea, some of the products and treatments marketed as the route to smoother, brighter, younger-looking skin may actually make your symptoms worse.

A recent article in Allure, published on 22 October 2026, explored ten beauty products and treatments that may trigger psoriasis flare-ups. It raises an important point that applies more broadly to sensitive skin: just because an ingredient is popular, powerful or natural doesn't mean it's right for your skin.

At Ermana, I've always believed in keeping skincare simple, understanding what we put on our skin and prioritising skin health over the pursuit of perfection.

Let's look at what you should approach with caution, why certain ingredients can be problematic and how to build a gentler routine.

First, why does sensitive skin react?

Sensitive skin isn't a single medical diagnosis. It describes skin that may sting, burn, itch, feel tight or become red in response to products, environmental conditions or other triggers.

Sometimes the skin's protective barrier is compromised. This barrier helps retain moisture and protects against external irritants. When it isn't functioning effectively, ingredients that were previously tolerated may suddenly cause discomfort.

Conditions such as eczema and rosacea can also make skin more reactive. Psoriasis is different: it is an immune-mediated condition that accelerates skin-cell turnover and causes inflamed, scaly patches. Irritation and skin injury can aggravate existing psoriasis and, in some people, trigger new patches through a process known as the Koebner phenomenon.

These conditions aren't interchangeable, and they don't all respond to the same ingredients. However, one principle applies across them: avoid unnecessary irritation and pay attention to how your own skin responds.

1. High-strength exfoliating acids

Ingredients to recognise: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and salicylic acid.

Exfoliating acids are popular because they can improve skin texture, help unclog pores and reduce the appearance of uneven pigmentation. But their effects depend on the ingredient, concentration, formulation and condition of your skin.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), including glycolic and lactic acid, loosen the bonds between surface skin cells. Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), most commonly salicylic acid, is oil-soluble and can help clear material from within pores.

The problem isn't that these ingredients are inherently bad. It's that stronger formulations, frequent application or using several exfoliating products together can irritate the skin.

Why be cautious?

Glycolic acid can cause stinging, redness and increased sensitivity, particularly at higher concentrations.
Lactic acid can exfoliate and attract moisture, but may still sting an impaired skin barrier.
Mandelic acid is often marketed as a gentler alternative, but it can still cause irritation.
Salicylic acid can be drying, although it has a legitimate role in treating acne and removing thick psoriasis scales when used appropriately.

High-strength acids and frequent exfoliation are best avoided when your skin is actively inflamed, sore or peeling.

For psoriasis, don't assume that scaling means you need a stronger exfoliant. Medicated salicylic acid preparations can be useful, but the British Association of Dermatologists advises that they may irritate surrounding skin and should be used appropriately.

A gentler approach: If your skin is reactive, prioritise moisturising and barrier support before introducing exfoliating acids. If you want to use an active ingredient, introduce one at a time and start cautiously, following the product instructions.

2. Chemical peels

Chemical peels use acids to remove controlled layers of the skin and encourage renewal.

Depending on the formulation and depth, they may involve glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, trichloroacetic acid or other peeling agents.

Although peels can be appropriate for selected skin concerns, they deliberately create a controlled injury to the skin. That is precisely why they require caution when the skin barrier is compromised or an inflammatory skin condition is active.

Potential problems include prolonged redness, irritation, pigmentation changes and, in susceptible people with psoriasis, the triggering of new lesions.

My advice: Avoid cosmetic chemical peels on actively inflamed or irritated skin. If you have psoriasis, eczema, rosacea or persistent sensitivity, discuss the risks with your GP or dermatologist before considering a peel.

You don't need to deliberately damage your skin to prove that your skincare is working.

3. Physical exfoliants and abrasive scrubs

Ingredients and tools to watch: Apricot kernels, walnut-shell particles, coarse sugar scrubs, rough cleansing brushes and abrasive facial pads.

Physical exfoliation removes surface cells through friction. While it can make skin feel temporarily smoother, vigorous scrubbing can also cause microscopic injuries, particularly when particles are irregular or pressure is excessive.

This is especially relevant to psoriasis, where skin trauma can trigger new patches in susceptible people.

It can also aggravate rosacea, increase discomfort in reactive skin and worsen an already damaged skin barrier.

A gentler approach: Cleanse using your fingertips and lukewarm water. Avoid rubbing with flannels, brushes or exfoliating gloves if they leave your skin feeling sore or tight.

If your skin is flaky, resist the urge to scrub the flakes away. Persistent scaling may need a different approach depending on its cause.

4. Microneedling, aggressive lasers and other abrasive treatments

Microneedling creates tiny punctures in the skin using fine needles. Certain laser treatments deliberately injure or remodel skin tissue to address concerns such as texture, pigmentation or scarring.

These procedures can have legitimate uses, but they are not suitable for everyone.

The issue for people with psoriasis is the potential for skin trauma to provoke new lesions. With sensitive skin, procedures can also cause prolonged irritation, redness or pigmentation changes.

Not every laser treatment carries the same risks, and some specialised laser therapies are used to treat psoriasis itself. The device, settings, indication and practitioner all matter.

Before booking: Tell your practitioner about any skin conditions, current flare-ups, medication and history of unusual scarring or pigmentation. Seek advice from a dermatologist before cosmetic procedures if you have active psoriasis or another inflammatory skin condition.

A treatment that works well for one person's skin may be inappropriate for another's.

5. Harsh cleansers and strong surfactants

Ingredient to recognise: Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS).

Surfactants help water mix with oil and dirt so that they can be washed away. They are essential in many cleansing products, but some can be irritating, particularly with repeated exposure or in people with compromised skin barriers.

SLS is an effective cleansing agent that can cause dryness, stinging and irritation in some people.

This doesn't mean every product containing a surfactant is harmful. Sodium laureth sulphate (SLES), for example, is a different ingredient, and the irritation potential of a finished product depends on its concentration and formulation.

The bigger issue is a cleanser that leaves your skin feeling stripped, tight or uncomfortable.

Your skin has its own protective lipids and natural moisturising factors. Cleansing should remove unwanted dirt, makeup and excess oil without unnecessarily disrupting that protective environment.

A gentler approach: Choose a mild, fragrance-free cleanser that suits your skin. Avoid repeatedly washing your face or using hot water to achieve that squeaky-clean feeling.

If you have eczema or psoriasis, the NHS recommends considering appropriate emollients or soap substitutes instead of ordinary soap and shower products.

6. Fragrance and essential oils

This is an important distinction, particularly for anyone who prefers natural skincare.

Potential triggers include: Added perfume, certain fragrance allergens and essential oils such as peppermint, tea tree and citrus oils.

Fragrance can make skincare a more enjoyable experience, but fragrance ingredients are also a recognised cause of allergic contact dermatitis in some people.

Essential oils are concentrated aromatic substances derived from plants. Their composition varies, and some contain naturally occurring compounds that can irritate the skin or cause sensitisation.

Examples include:

Peppermint oil and menthol: Can produce a cooling or tingling sensation that may be uncomfortable or irritating.
Tea tree oil: Can cause irritant or allergic contact dermatitis, particularly when oxidised or used inappropriately.
Citrus essential oils: Certain types and formulations can cause irritation or, depending on the oil, phototoxic reactions.
Linalool and limonene: Fragrance compounds that can become more sensitising as they oxidise.

Witch hazel is another ingredient worth approaching cautiously if you have reactive skin. Its effects depend on the preparation, and alcohol-containing formulations may be particularly drying.

Does this mean natural ingredients should be avoided altogether? No. It means they deserve the same scrutiny as synthetic ingredients.

At Ermana, we work with plant oils, butters and essential oils because we value their properties. However, I would never suggest that a botanical ingredient is automatically safe for everyone. People with highly sensitive skin, fragrance allergies or active inflammatory conditions may be better served by fragrance-free products.

A useful label tip: Look for fragrance-free rather than assuming unscented means the same thing. Unscented products may contain ingredients intended to mask other smells.

7. Lightweight moisturisers that don't meet your skin's needs

A lightweight moisturiser isn't automatically bad for sensitive skin. Some are excellent, and some people prefer their texture.

However, if your skin is very dry, tight or prone to scaling, a lightweight product may not provide enough protection on its own.

It is also worth understanding the difference between alcohols used in skincare.

Ethanol, alcohol denat. and SD alcohol: Can contribute to dryness or irritation in certain formulations, particularly when used in high amounts.
Cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol: Fatty alcohols that help soften skin and stabilise formulations. They are not equivalent to drying alcohols and are generally well tolerated.
Glycerin: A humectant that attracts water to the outer layers of skin.
Ceramides: Lipids that help support the skin barrier.
Petrolatum: An occlusive ingredient that reduces water loss from the skin.
Shea butter: A plant-derived emollient that softens skin and helps reduce moisture loss.

The right moisturiser depends on what your skin needs. Humectants attract water, emollients soften the skin, and occlusives help reduce water loss. Many effective products combine these functions.

For very dry or scaly skin, a richer cream or ointment may be more suitable than a lightweight lotion. The NHS recommends emollients as part of managing conditions including psoriasis and eczema.

A gentler approach: Choose a moisturiser that leaves your skin comfortable for several hours without stinging or worsening redness. Don't judge a product by whether it feels light, rich or luxurious; judge it by how your skin responds.

8. Hair dyes and common allergens

Hair dye is easy to overlook when thinking about sensitive skin, but reactions can occur around the hairline, ears, scalp, face and neck.

One important ingredient is para-phenylenediamine (PPD), used in many permanent and some semi-permanent hair dyes.

PPD can cause allergic contact dermatitis, with symptoms including itching, redness, swelling and blistering. A reaction may not occur the first time you use a product; sensitisation can develop over time.

If you have reacted to hair dye before, don't simply switch brands and try again. Seek advice from a healthcare professional about possible allergy testing.

Always follow the manufacturer's allergy-alert test instructions before each use. However, these tests cannot guarantee that a reaction won't occur, and you should never use hair dye if you have previously reacted to it or have been advised not to.

If you develop significant facial swelling or breathing difficulties following a product reaction, seek emergency medical assistance.

9. Tattoos and other procedures that injure the skin

Tattoos involve repeatedly puncturing the skin to deposit ink. This can cause an inflammatory response and, in some people with psoriasis, trigger new lesions at the site of injury.

Tattoo pigments can also cause allergic reactions.

This doesn't mean every person with psoriasis will experience a problem, but anyone with active or poorly controlled psoriasis should discuss the risks with their dermatologist before getting tattooed.

The same general principle applies to other cosmetic procedures involving skin injury: consider your individual skin history, the current state of your condition and the potential for complications before proceeding.

10. Too many active ingredients at once

This final point deserves particular attention because it is so easy to fall into the trap of building a complicated routine.

One product contains vitamin C. Another contains retinol. You add an exfoliating toner, an acid serum and a brightening treatment because each promises a different benefit.

Individually, some of these ingredients have good evidence for particular skin concerns. Retinoids can help with acne and signs of photoageing, while vitamin C can offer antioxidant benefits. But using several potentially irritating actives together can make it difficult to identify what is causing a reaction.

Retinoids can cause dryness, peeling and irritation, particularly when first introduced. High-strength vitamin C formulations can sting, and combining multiple exfoliating products may compromise the skin barrier.

A gentler approach: Start with a simple routine: a suitable cleanser, moisturiser and broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day. Introduce additional ingredients only when there is a clear reason to use them, and one at a time.

You do not need every trending ingredient in your bathroom cabinet.

What should you use instead if you have sensitive skin?

The goal isn't to find the most expensive, natural or fashionable product. It is to support your skin without creating unnecessary irritation.

Consider the following principles.

1. Keep your routine simple

Use a small number of products that your skin tolerates. Avoid changing your entire routine at once, as this makes it difficult to identify potential triggers.

2. Support the skin barrier

Look for appropriate moisturising ingredients such as glycerin, ceramides and well-tolerated emollients. If your skin is very dry, an ointment or richer cream may offer more protection than a lightweight lotion.

3. Choose fragrance-free products if you're reactive

Fragrance-free skincare is a sensible starting point if you have a history of reactions to perfume or essential oils. If you have known allergies, check the full ingredient list rather than relying on front-of-pack claims.

4. Be careful when introducing something new

Test a new product on a small area of unaffected skin and observe it over several days. A home patch test can help identify some reactions, but it cannot rule out all irritation or allergy.

Do not test products on active psoriasis plaques, broken skin or areas that are already inflamed. If you have a history of severe allergic reactions, ask a healthcare professional for advice before trying unfamiliar products.

5. Protect your skin from the sun

Sunburn can aggravate psoriasis and damage the skin. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, ideally SPF 50 for prolonged exposure, and choose a formulation you tolerate. Shade and protective clothing are also important.

6. Seek medical advice when needed

Persistent redness, itching, scaling, burning or recurrent reactions deserve attention. A GP or dermatologist can help distinguish psoriasis, eczema, rosacea, allergic contact dermatitis and other conditions that may require different treatments.

If you have psoriasis, don't replace prescribed treatment with cosmetic skincare. Emollients can support your routine, but they do not replace treatment when medication is needed.

Does natural skincare mean safer skincare?

This is something I feel strongly about as the founder of a natural skincare business.

The word natural is often used as though it guarantees safety. It doesn't.

Plants contain a wide range of chemicals, some beneficial and some capable of irritating skin or causing allergic reactions. Equally, synthetic ingredients are not automatically harmful. What matters is the individual ingredient, its concentration, the formulation, how it is used and the person applying it.

Plant oils and butters can be useful emollients. They help soften skin and can contribute to reducing moisture loss. However, they are not a cure for psoriasis, eczema or other inflammatory skin conditions, and not every oil is suitable for every skin type.

For people with highly reactive skin, fragrance-free formulations with a short, well-tolerated ingredient list may be a better starting point than heavily fragranced botanical products.

At Ermana, our approach is to make plant-based skincare in small batches, using ingredients selected for a purpose. But good skincare also means being honest about its limitations. No face oil can promise to treat a medical skin condition, and no ingredient should be considered universally suitable.

Healthy skin isn't about following a trend. It's about understanding what your skin needs and responding accordingly.

A final thought: perhaps your skin needs less, not more

We live in a beauty culture that encourages us to treat every pore, line, patch and change in texture as a problem requiring a solution.

But skin is a living organ. It responds to our environment, hormones, health, medication and the products we use. It will not always look the same, and that isn't a failure.

If your skin is constantly stinging, flaking or reacting, adding another product may not be the answer. Sometimes it is worth simplifying your routine, allowing irritation to settle and seeking proper advice.

For those living with psoriasis or another skin condition, appropriate treatment matters. For everyone else, the same sensible principle applies: use products for a reason, understand what they contain and don't mistake irritation for evidence that something is working.

Your skin doesn't need to be fixed every day. Sometimes, the best thing you can do for it is stop asking so much of it.

Ermana Natural Skincare is a Glasgow-based independent skincare business focused on plant-based skincare and a considered approach to skin health. This article is for general information and is not a substitute for personalised medical advice.

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